There are many different types of roof covering and structure, all of which need regular inspection to see what, if any, maintenance works may be required to ensure the roof adequately fulfils its duty of keeping the weather outside and the occupants and their belongings dry.

Less common specialist coverings such as thatch, wooden shingles, and metal panels will require specialist review, and a suggested five-year interval is recommended unless a problem is identified between routine inspections.

Common surfaces on one-, two-, and three-storey homes, such as slate, clay peg tiles, and concrete interlocking tiles, are easier to inspect for potential issues from the ground by using binoculars or a digital camera with a zoom lens. Drones can also be useful for completing a condition assessment, if you have the suitable equipment and skill, as well as any required licence.

• Inspect roof coverings from ground level using binoculars or a zoom lens, and use a drone only where you have the suitable equipment, skill, and any required licence.
• Check for missing, broken, or dislodged tiles or slates, and for mortar loss at ridge and hip lines.
• Keep roof valleys clear and in a good state of repair so water can flow correctly from the roof surface.
• Inspect the loft-side underfelt for displacement, tears, and any visible daylight through the roof.
• Look for staining, water marks, or white colouring on roof timbers, as these can indicate ingress or condensation from inadequate ventilation.
• For specialist coverings such as thatch, wooden shingles, or metal panels, arrange specialist review at around five-year intervals unless a problem is identified sooner.

As with pitched roofs, there are many different types of flat roof and coverings, some common ones being: felt, lead, single-ply membrane, and cold-applied liquid.

Most flat roofs, whilst being flat, will not be completely level, and this is a specific design feature to help water drain in a predefined direction and to avoid standing water.

Standing water (or "ponding") is not necessarily an issue itself, although it could indicate that some maintenance is required to prevent premature failure of the roof covering.

Flat roof coverings tend to have a shorter lifespan than pitched and tiled roofs, although some, such as lead, have a significant lifespan, whilst others may have specialist insurance-backed warranties which can last for 20 years.

Here are example images of each type of flat roof covering mentioned.

• Check for standing water retention and signs that the roof is not draining as intended, as this can indicate maintenance is required.
• Keep the roof surface clear of moss, leaves, stones, broken tiles, and other debris to reduce load and maintain drainage performance.
• Inspect single-ply membranes for bubbles and include these in routine condition checks.
• Monitor felt coverings closely for end-of-life wear and plan replacement where condition indicates this is required.
• Consider the expected lifespan of the covering type when planning maintenance, noting that felt typically has a shorter lifespan than some alternatives.

• Inspect mansard roofs as a combined system: apply pitched-roof checks to the steep slopes and flat-roof checks to the flatter sections.
• Inspect the window junction detail where the window opening meets the roof structure.
• Check weather-sealing details according to whether windows are set outside or inside the roof structure.

• Check fascias and soffits for visible deterioration, including areas where over-cladding may conceal timber condition.
• Where fascias and soffits are over-clad in PVCu, carefully remove areas of cladding periodically to inspect the timber and repair/replace where required.
• Replace rotten fascia sections that can no longer safely support the weight of guttering.
• Redecorate timber soffits and fascias where needed to limit further deterioration and avoid premature replacement.
• Ensure soffit vents / grilles remain present and effective so roof space cross ventilation can be maintained.

It is important to keep gutters and downpipes clear of leaves, moss, and all other debris. Gutters full of debris prevent the flow of water away from the roof in heavy rain, leading to the rainwater cascading down the outside face brickwork, which, in turn, can lead to damp and water ingress issues with the building. Even in storm conditions, these sorts of water ingress issues would not be an insured event, as the root cause is the lack of regular maintenance and not the storm condition.

Gutters which are not regularly and routinely cleared can also put undue stress on their fixings due to the extra weight of the debris they are carrying, which can lead to premature failure of their fixings and/or the fascia they are fixed to.

Debris from gutters which are not regularly cleared can accumulate and block downpipes, leading to the gutters overflowing and surface water not being correctly directed away from the home.

• Keep gutters and downpipes clear of leaves, moss, and other debris so rainwater can be directed away from the roof and building structure.
• Clear gutters routinely to reduce excess load on fixings and lower the risk of premature failure of gutter fixings or the fascia they are fixed to.
• Check that debris has not accumulated in downpipes, as blockages can lead to overflowing gutters and misdirected surface water.
• Keep ground-level drainage channels, including ACO drains, clear so surface water can flow to a safe discharge point.
• Prevent debris from entering soakaways, as accumulation can reduce their capacity to cope with heavy rainfall events.

It is important to regularly lift the lid on inspection chambers to ensure there is no build up of debris that will impede the flow of waste and water via the drainage system.

Early discovery of any build up can be dealt with much more effectively than if the drain is allowed to become fully blocked and it backs up.

Inspection chambers are usually round or rectangular with plastic, metal, or concrete lids.

• Lift inspection chamber lids regularly and check for debris build up that could impede waste and water flow.
• Act early when build up is identified, rather than allowing the system to become fully blocked.
• Keep common blockage materials out of the foul drainage system, including wipes, fats/oils, hygiene products, litter, and food waste.
• If your system connects to a private sewage treatment plant, avoid harsh bleach-based chemicals and use natural plant-based cleaners around kitchens and bathrooms.

Doors and windows have many important functions to perform, and consequently, their ongoing maintenance is critical to ensure they perform as expected. Their most vital function is to provide an escape route in an emergency.

Ventilation, security, keeping heat in and draughts out, as well as ensuring rainwater stays out of the home are other vital functions they deliver.

There are many types of doors and windows made from a range of materials, each with its own properties and maintenance requirements to consider. Sometimes, you have a combination of materials, for example, where an aluminium window is installed into a timber frame set.

• Review doors and windows regularly to ensure they continue to provide safe emergency escape, effective ventilation, security, and weather protection.
• Apply material-specific maintenance: protect softwood and hardwood finishes, inspect aluminium coatings for chips/scratches, check PVCu welded joints for cracking, and maintain Crittall paintwork.
• Lubricate hinges and locking mechanisms and check draught exclusion seals where casements close on to frames.
• Check mastic / silicone sealant joints for completeness and integrity, particularly to the underside of window and door cills.
• Operate and clean ventilation mechanisms and inspect any separate supporting frame material for repair and redecoration needs.

For information on double glazing installations and FENSA certification, please refer to the following:

There are many places on the outside of the home where you can find different types of vents and grilles.

It is important that these are visually checked on a regular basis to ensure they remain clear from debris, allowing air to pass in and out and, in some cases, allowing moisture to escape.

In addition, the inspection should ensure there is no damage to these so they can effectively prevent insect / animal ingress.

• Visually check external vents and grilles regularly to ensure they remain clear from debris and are not damaged.
• Identify the different vent and grille types around the home so you can confirm they remain present and in suitable condition.
• Use binoculars or a camera zoom to check roof-level vent tiles where needed from a safe position.
• Check that the soil vent pipe retains its top grille so debris is kept out whilst gases can escape.
• Ensure weep holes/vents, trickle vents, and air bricks remain unobstructed so they can continue to perform their ventilation and moisture-control functions.
• Replace or repair damaged vents or grilles promptly where they could allow insect or animal ingress.

The damp proof course (DPC) is a layer of horizontal, waterproof material which is embedded within the walls of the home, usually a minimum of 2 rows of bricks above ground level and just above the air bricks.

The DPC can often be recognised as a thin line of black material within the mortar.

Over time, the outside ground level can potentially build up, particularly with the addition of patios and similar features. Where this increase in level is close to or above the DPC, it can lead to damp inside the home, so the ground level should be monitored and reduced if required.

• Identify the damp proof course and check that it remains visible above external ground level.
• Monitor outside ground levels, particularly where patios or other finishes have been added over time.
• Reduce ground levels where they are close to or above the damp proof course to help prevent damp inside the home.

Ensure you know the location of your gas meter / LPG / oil tank shut-off valve in case of an emergency.

Typically, these will look similar to the images shown. The red circles show where the shut-off valves are, and these are usually levers which need to be rotated 90 degrees so they are at right angles to the pipe. In the case of the LPG tank, the valve is usually under the highlighted cover and is a round brass tap.

• Make sure everyone in the home knows the location of the gas meter / LPG / oil tank shut-off valve.
• Check that the shut-off valve can be identified quickly and understand how it is turned off.
• Every 3 months, close the valve and then open it again to ensure it remains freely operable in an emergency.
• Do not test the valve whilst the boiler is operating or could come into operation, and ensure heating and hot water are off first.

For information on gas safety and finding qualified gas engineers, please refer to the following:

• Keep an annual service schedule for all solar components and arrange visits with an appropriately qualified specialist.
• Confirm that cleaning is included as part of the annual maintenance scope.
• Keep service records for the panels and equipment such as inverters or thermal components.

For information on solar panel installations and finding qualified installers, please refer to the following: